With the arrival of the monsoon, Mumbaikars and visitors alike turn their focus towards dodging puddles and staying dry. But the three-month rainy season can be a remarkably pleasant time to experience the city; provided you’re watching the rain and not stuck in it. One of the best ways to do so is to find a cafe — one with good views of the cascading showers, of course — and settle in with a cup of tea, a snack or a hearty lunch.
The Champagne Lounge (Nariman Point; 91-22-6632-5757) at the recently reopened Oberoi Hotel is one such spot. Nestled in an alcove off the hotel atrium, the second-floor cafe offers sweeping views of the Arabian Sea. Try a glass of Champagne, a loose-leaf Darjeeling tea, or come between 3 and 6:30 p.m. for afternoon high tea, which includes sandwiches, pastries and scones (750 rupees, $16.18 at 46.35 rupees to the dollar).
For something a little more frugal, grab a cup of sweet milky chai (20 rupees) at the outdoor cafe of the Privthi Theater (20 Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road, Juhu; 91-22-2614-9546). This hangout for the arts and theater crowd is freshly weatherproofed; you’ll hear and see the rain, but will be out of its direct path.
Or cozy up to one of Mumbai’s iconic dishes, the berry pulao (150 to 300 rupees) served at Britannia and Company (11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate; 91-22-2261-5264). You can enjoy this generous pile of saffron-hued rice, mixed with mutton, chicken or a hard boiled egg, then topped with chunks of potatoes, crispy onions, fried cashews, and dried-red berries — while watching the rain pour down on the street from the open entryways. Just don’t leave your umbrella behind.